Rogue Sommelier

Three Thieves
2005 Bandit Cabernet
California

See The Video! Episode 004 I have long been a “point of sale” addict. I can’t resist sampling wines with catchy names or kicky labels. However, I do have the veins of a traditionalist. I like glass and cork. I have resisted alternative packaging like the bubonic plague, but when I saw a small rectangular carton from one of my favorite wineries my curiosity was peaked.

None the less, months went by and still I resisted, that is until today. Three Thieves Bandit Cabernet leapt of the shelf and landed in my hand. I could not help it. A carton with a plastic screw spout… I cringed at the very thought. The great color and whimsical attitude of the marketing coupled with an attractive price finally did their job and I could resist no longer.

On the initial crack of the screw spout I knew that I was in for an experience.  In the glass the wine displayed cherry hues and medium legs. No light was able to pass through viewing it from the side. Still I was skeptical, yet hopeful.

I put my nose deep into the glass and inhaled. I felt as though I’d entered a tobacco shop. Wood and smoke permeated the top notes. This conjured images of roadside highwaymen sitting around secret fires and Colonial Williamsburg at Christmas time.

This wine was thicker in the mouth than I would have expected. I would go as far as to call it meaty with a velvety chocolate quality, and more tobacco notes throughout. This cab has a medium long finish (I suggest taking another sip). After a short while in the glass this wine really started to open up. Definite berry notes on the nose became evident, and it became much smoother in the mouth.

Don’t be afraid of this wine and its offbeat packaging. The Europeans have been doing it for years, and I believe it is here to stay. This carton system means more wine to drink (One and one third bottle equivalent), it’s crushable and recyclable, which means its green.

Three Thieves is a new generation winery. They are the self proclaimed “Liberators of world class wine”, and The Rogue agrees. I’ve been a fan of this merry band since I picked up a case of their Zinfandel in Snob Proof Mini Jugs two years back. I lament that it took me this long to get over my prejudices, but Three Thieves Bandit Cabernet now lands squarely on my most wanted list. After all… Rogues and Thieves should stick together!